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  • So chances are, I wouldnt be able to fit a pair on a 30a 220v twist? and, uh, yeah, all 18 are going on generators. My 15kw strobe gets a dedicated 50a 220v.
  • You can, but if its an AF1000 mini controller, you have to change the chip & crystal.
  • Here, in Seattle, I can barely think of a single club that isn't still using a gaggle of trackspots. No joke! They are the quintessential club light, even still. I even know of a club that just installed 4 of them a couple of weeks ago (install…
  • Next time, don't buy chinese junk. Any other questions?
  • Does a cracked heat filter really affect anything?
  • This is an easy one ( I just had this issue). You have a bad diode thats attached in parrallel to a capacitor on the board. You can simply cut it out and the technobeam will work properly. I'd recommend replacing the diode, as its some kind of ov…
  • All the wires should be labeled to determine the color wheel chip. Swap them around and see if that fixes your issue. If not, probably a motor. I had a similar problem recently and it turned out to be a short in one of the wires going to the moto…
  • I know somebody else who does that... oh wait, never mind.
  • Conclusion: all 5 motor driver chips needed replacing. the Color and Gobo chips were sending some weird signals, the other 3 were completely dead. Replacing all 5, and the fixture works perfectly.
  • I just switched out the transformer, and thats not it. We were getting some weird signals from a diode, but they all test within specs. I'm going to spend some more time on it tonight.
  • Thats was the 2nd thing I tried. I tried again, pulling a proc from a working unit with a similar manufacture date.
  • We've seen this commonly with Diving Lighting lamps. If thats what you are using, Jeff of Big Dark Spot Lighting (also on this forum) has found a generic replacement socket that fixes this issue. Otherwise, stick with Osram lamps, they're worth th…
  • When that happens, I've found 3 possible reasons: 1: Dip switches, as noted above. 2: A wire sometimes gets crimped, cut, or grounded coming from the transformer (sometimes done when reassembling the fixture). 3: One of the three sets of le…
  • Thanx Jeff
  • I agree but think that there should be no fee for job listings. And here's why: Although the idea would be to limit any type of job listing 'spamming' from the industry, it is in HES's interest to help pair job openings with people from this boa…
  • One of my favorite books is "Automated Lighting" by Richard Cadena. But when it comes to programming moving fixtures, the best lessons you'll learn is from practice and watching others. Nothing replaces the hours logged behind a controller.
  • This is caused of 1 of 2 issues. Most common cause is a bad voltage selector. You can replace it or wire around it. If that doesn't fix the problem, you have bad transformer. Those go for about $150 from Lightparts.
  • Stay far away from any chinese brand light. I make a lot of my bread from fixture repair and i end up fixing quite a bit of AmDJ, Chauvet, & Elation. Honestly, their design isn't half as bad as us elitists would assume, but their build quality…
  • Is it an up or down arrow? If so, I've got one to spare. PM me.
  • which key do u need, what color, and how many LEDs are on it, if any?
  • If you need a new technobeam LCD controller, pm me, mine is going on the market soon, and it will be very inexpensive. I'll also sell my technobeams cheap, if you want another pair. Alternatively, these controllers are rock solid and not difficu…
  • if memory serves, there's a 2nd cable running from the lcd to the main board that provides power for the backlighting. Open up the top and check there.
  • I highly recommend using these lamps in American DJ products. Those things deserve to explode.
  • I don't know of a DMX option for the old style dataflashes, but if you figure it out, I'd be interested in knowing. In addition, if your controller is the LCD version, can I get in line to buy it?
  • A Lightwave TD12, pulsar controller, or old analog american DJ controller can do that using the 8-pin DIN cable(s). Good luck finding a TD12 (took me 6 months to find mine).
  • Perhaps a lamp is rattling around inside?
  • Thats why its "R&D". If you think about it, I should be charging High End. But since I'm such a nice guy and devoted to the cause, I'm willing to do it for free. Could I have some DL.3s with that?
    in Show pix! Comment by muvment May 2008
  • I dug the fixture, but I can't seem to find the online form that allows me to "borrow" some of these for R&D testing at burning man. Whats the link for that form?
    in Show pix! Comment by muvment May 2008
  • Did anyone else consider converting? Because a spam really helps me reflect on how important church is! Now if only someone could spam me into quitting smoking.
    in JUNK MAIL!!! Comment by muvment May 2008
  • You don't think they've been running non-stop for over 17 years? You skeptic!
  • I switched the cables when it was off and upon plugging the unit back in, it didn't boot up. (I was thinking it was a bad tilt motor). switching the cables back didn't fix the problem. Upon replacing the pan and tilt driver chips and the EEPROM, …
  • The EEPROM from Don at Lightparts is $62.50 and the motor chips range from $8 to $14. (I'm constantly calling & emailing lightparts for advice and parts. I blew out an eeprom and 2 motor chips last week in a trackspot (who knew switching the p…
  • Could I get a link for instructions on bypassing the voltage selector? I've got this issue on one of my fixtures that is awaiting resurrection (i've got a growing pilek of trackspots that yearn to live again)
  • as a followup question on a recent issue I've been having. Occasionally, one of my tbeams douses its light in the middle of a show. Is there anyway to strike it w/o a reboot/home? I usually use an tbeam LCD controller on these guys, but occasiona…
  • Turns out: 2 driver chips and the EEPROM are blown. I solved the problem with the excellent help of: LightParts.
  • agreed with just playing with your rig. On an unplanned evening, i bunker down in the lighting booth and just play (and drink). If I have a gig on site coming up, I set up the rig in advance and do all my programming before load in. That way, whe…
  • trackspot controller? Do you mean the analog controller with the weird cables that can't be daisy-chained? Highly doubtful. Get an Intellabeam Controller, those things rock. There's a cheap LED one on gearsource right now.
  • chris_litz wrote: Mirror getting off it a completely different thing. Try this: Watch the mirror home & note which direction it moves & knocks against the standoff. Put all the address & personality switches on. This puts the fixtur…
  • chris_litz wrote: There are different motor drivers on the boards. You may notice some strobong variences at fast speeds between the versions. really? And I though I had to "fine tune" the shutter. Anything else that would be impacted? Bec…
  • whats the difference between the versions?
  • The buttons work perfectly and send the proper voltage. It seems to be something in the circuit boards and not the mechanical workings of the switches.
  • suggestion: ditch the 5mw and install a 1 watt with its own controller and cooling module. You could burn out retinas within 1000 meters. You could mount the technobeams on a turret and have the best battle-light rig in the industry.
  • I still can't seem to find any photometric information for the AF1000 (with reflector, preferably). Anyone have this info?
  • Thats got to be it. I suspected a simple configuration issue, but I reset the tbeam when i first got it. Aparrently, it still likes its old memories. For instance, the lamp hours never resets, upon reboot, its always back to the pre-erased hours.
  • After disassembling and cleaning, the focus no longer skips. It slides smoothly, but at a 255, the focus tube only gets about 1/2 way up. It seems that everyting is perfect except the tbeam thinks the focus track is half the size it really is.
  • do you know of any year designation. I'll be buying some more t-beams next month... probably from ebay. What should i look for to avoid random pyrotechnics at my shows?
  • Are these on the new Strong Technobeams, or the HES ones? Whats the manufacturing date? In other words, what should I avoid when buying more used t-beams?
  • Correction:
  • $12 from They rock, I will vouch for them.
  • I would like to see a scanner that is physically smaller than the technobeam, has a 575 watt lamp, only needs a 110VAC and has rotating gobs, effects, an LAD, color mixing, and an iris. Also, durable enough for the road like a trackspot (even after…