Nasty Nasty X Spot

OK Hoping someone has an Idea for me. 1 of our X spots here in OZ 240v at 50hz, The Current Supply in the Factory at testing was 243 Volts.
Ok, the X spot in question runs absolutely fine if it is sat on its base on a case, self test and with DMX Signal.Now for the conundrum.Hang the X spot as it should be off clamps (upside Down), and on start up the following errors imediatly appear in the menu,
Dim2 Sensor Blocked
Dim2 Edge notfound
Cyan Tab not found
CTO tab not found
Color Tab not found
If the unit is sent to self test or DMX signal, these errors are indeed very real and not just a glitch in the screen read out.I have Looked inside nothing appears loose as you may expect from this sort of problem that I can see.:confused:
Somebodys help would be much appreciated, maybe this is one for the High End Boys.

Regards J.P
  • I'm going to take a stab at this..
    Hang the fixture inverted per normal. Then check the info cables to make sure they are not getting pulled loose and making sure the are zip tied to the frame at the proper angle. Also check where the same cables hit the headers in the lower. Are you sure the litho modules are in the right place? If back wards it can cause problems (collision) My best guess.
  • MIght it also be a loose screw on that two phase that is causing the card to lose it's identity when it shifts when flipped? Make sure the contact screws (or whatever HES calls them . . .) are all snugly seated on the card.

    - Tim
  • Well it just keeps getting better all the Time(HA)
    I tried all of your suggestions, and thought I had it solved, but the problem returned and to compound my problem I was stupidly Unplugging and Plugging the large orange connector on the large Square board at the front of the unit, got it wrong once and now I appear to have nuked that board( 3 phase tilt board I think) as I now have 1 green status light and two flashing red lights resulting in no tilt.(please tell me I have not nuked it but I guess I have).
    any way back to the original problem, it has got worse, sometimes it is ok on start up other times it gets stuck in home, and the aforementioned color wheels just keep spinning round, other times it goes really stupid and the display fritz's also, strobing, small words on top of large words.
    so back to sqaure one.:(
    I also have another X spot that has a pulsating Green Light on the 2 phase board for the litho wheels they are dead in the water, if I fiddle with the board 80060007 near it with the large orange connector marked HD1 it blows the bottom M205 2.5amp fuse. any ideas on that little problem.

    Again any help is much appreciated
  • If there is a dealer down under I'd ship it to be honest with you. Unless you already have ton of know how already, you in a bit of a pickle.
  • when ever the wheels keep spinning that means that the sensor they use to home is blocked. Check the sensor and the wiring. Its probably a bad sensor. Try swapping 2ph boards around to see if different problems track with different boards. For your possibly nuked 3 ph board, check the two little fuses on it, if you are lucky one of them could have blown. If the board is bad send it off to highend or light parts for repair.
  • [quote=TimMiller]when ever the wheels keep spinning that means that the sensor they use to home is blocked. Check the sensor and the wiring. Its probably a bad sensor. Try swapping 2ph boards around to see if different problems track with different boards. For your possibly nuked 3 ph board, check the two little fuses on it, if you are lucky one of them could have blown. If the board is bad send it off to highend or light parts for repair.
    To that end, there are LED's on the two phase card that show the status of the signal coming in from the sensors (the HES docs show which is which . . . ) which you can use to determine if a sensor is coming in OK or not . . . I have had sensors fail, and the good news is that they are pretty cheap . . .

    - Tim
  • You can usually figure out which sensor is which by blocking off different sensors and seeing if an LED flashes from green to orange. If it does not than that sensor is bad. I have had some do some flaky things. I have reciently had a problem with a 2ph board, where it would make the Display flash half of the light would just shut down. Or give the entire fixture a data glitch (looked like a unterminated dmx line glitch) but there was no dmx running into the fixutre. I replaced the board and the light was happy.
  • Just looked at the manual . . .

    Flashing red on a 3 phase is "No Data". Assuming it was HD-1 that you got off by a pin, then there were two chances. If you got it in one direction, the 40V line would have hit ground, and probably taken out the power supply fuse. More likely you shifted it the other way, and that would have put 40V on one of the data lines into the card, and probably took out the input buffer chip, resulting in that error.

    On the two phase, I see no reference to a puling green. Any chance that it is going green/yellow? If so, then that would indicate that you have two cards addressed the same . . . which would explain also quite well why one is not functioning . . . on the dual litho, make sure that he only addressing screw is on the top left, next to HD-1 . .

    On the fuse, assuming that is a 2 phase card, the fuses there each protect two of the four motor channels, so if one pops, two outputs die. Try unplugging the motors and see if it still blows, then add motors one at a time. If it then goes, the last motor you plugged is either bad or has a cable short. If it blows anyhow, take out the two motor driver chips and repeat the test. If you need an extra to test with, the fourth motor channel on the litho/iris card is not used, and the driver chip can be used as a spare (thanks to Chris at HES for putting me onto that one!).

    Oh, and on the dual litho 2 phase, the channel assignments are as follows:

    U9/M1 - FX Rotate
    U10/M2 - Litho 1 Wheel
    U11/M3 - FX Wheel
    U12/M4 - Litho 1 Rotate

    S1 - FX/L1 Wheel
    S2 - FX Rot
    S3 - L1 Rot
    S4 - Not used

    Where the "U" is driver chip number, the "M" is motor channel, and "S" is sensor channel . . .

    - Tim

    Hope this helps . . .

    - Tim
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