Cyberlight CL Bench Test

ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
edited November 2007 in HES Automated Lighting
Need a little help,

I am bench testing 8 CL's to compare the light sources.

They are refurbished units and at the first show I could see a noticeable difference in output between some of them.

I want to repeat a point on the output chart that is found on the Data Sheet. Specifically the 15 foot reading of about 524 fc as that's my setup in the shop.

Given that the light output chart has a Beam Angle of 16 degrees listed on it, I am guessing that this means a fully zoomed in and focused beam setting? This is because one of the listed ranges is 16 - 26 degrees.

I guess the question is "what are all the beam parameters for this test?"

So far I have compared 3 units and one is visibly darker than the other 2 and optimizing the lamp does nothing. Literally, adjusting the lamp makes almost no noticible difference on the output. I pulled the lamp and it looks good and is an MSR 1200/2. Thinking it may be way out of position. Next check I think I'll pull one of the good ones and compare them physically. Or should I suspect the reflector?

Any Thoughts? :confused:

Comments

  • FxDrewFxDrew Registered User
    edited September 2007
    Do all the lamps have the same amount of hours on them?
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited September 2007
    Andrew,

    Don't know. They are refurbs from High End. I will check back on the purchase and see if new lamps were spec'd or were they purchased with "as is" lamps.

    I've been thinking over the weekend that another good test to do is swap the lamps between one of the "good" units and the dim one.

    Fortunately the show is early December and I don't need all 8 units. I feel it is very educational to trouble shoot and repair though.

    Cat
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited September 2007
    Got back to testing yesterday...
    Replaced the lamp and voila! Lumens galore.

    Ok, next problem, in testing we noticed that the fixtures are drawing about 11 amps at start and settling down to about 9 amps. Spec is 6.3 amps.

    The fixtures were labeled (on the box) as being set for 208V. Our power is about 210V. So I'm suspecting the power supply tap. Will pull the cover this afternoon and confirm.

    In the meantime, anyone had this before where the tap was on say 230 but you ran on 208 and if so what happened?



    Cat
  • FxDrewFxDrew Registered User
    edited September 2007
    If the power factor caps go, they will pull more amps I think.
  • Woodj32177Woodj32177 Registered User
    edited September 2007
    I believe they will work on 208 if they are tapped for 230,
    They will just look dim.
    And as for the amperage draw,
    I concur, you should look at the power factor cap, perhaps swap it with one from another unit and see if the problem chases the cap or the fixture.
    Good Luck!
    Joshua Wood
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited September 2007
    I checked the tap on the two units on the bench and they are both correct at 208V.

    So far I had only checked amperage on one of the two benched units. I'll check it on the other and several more. Then I can try swapping power factor caps.

    Cat
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited September 2007
    Ok, so I tested all the fixtures yesterday. For each one they were set to the same parameters (IPCB) and I noted voltage and current at the fixture, along with the foot candles at 15 feet away at center beam and "optimized" the lamp. Got some interesting results.

    Voltage was always 209VAC, taps are set for 208V 60Hz.

    Fixture, current, ftcd
    1, 8.5A, 150 ftcd
    2, 3.9A, 530 ftcd
    3, 8.6A, 140 ftcd
    4, 8.8A, 850 ftcd
    5, 8.5A, 750 ftcd
    6, 3.8A, 150 ftcd
    7, Lamp strikes for a few minutes then shuts off
    8, no lamp, stole it for one of the others


    Best guess is it's a wide range of lamp life's. Think we'll buy some new lamps and see what results we get.


    Cat
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited October 2007
    So, we put some new lamps in and things are looking much better on the output. All about mid 800's.

    However, the current draw for the 8 fixtures still fall into 2 basic groups. 4 of them are in the 8-9 amps range, and the other 4 are in the 4-5 amps range.

    Does anyone at High End know if there are different power supply designs that would account for this?


    Cat
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited November 2007
    Chris,

    I plan on testing the power caps this week. The fixtures are in another location so to prepare I've downloaded the schematic and expoded view.
    I plan on swapping caps between a 4.5A fixture and an 8.5A fixture.

    I have a good idea of where it is and that it plugs into the PCB.

    Can someone share some "I've been there before" tips on pulling the cap?

    Is it obvious when I pull the cover, or will there be some tricks on what to loosen and wiggle out of the way?

    Thanks ahead.
  • Woodj32177Woodj32177 Registered User
    edited November 2007
    It is a pretty obvious thing, it is a Huge capacitor, bolted to the front bulkhead of the lamp house.
    On the same side as the powersupply card.
    To be honest it is pretty tough to miss.
    Good Luck!
    Joshua Wood
  • ChrisTallChrisTall Registered User, DL Beta
    edited November 2007
    Thanks Joshua,

    I figured I would find it ok. Just fishin' for things like special tools or "loosen but don't remove the bolts" kind of stuff.

    Sounds like it's a quick and easy job though.

    Cat
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