Studio Command Strike

www.emoticons.free.fr/smileys/Emotion-Confused/confused5.gif ah...yes.
Does it ever strike?

You mean you cant follow that? :poke:

:dunce: I will try again.

I have 4 Studio Commands on a truss (#1-4). I have two circuits dropped to that truss (20A #1 and 2). When I began unit #1 and 2 were plugged into circuit 1 and worked perfectly. Unit #3 and 4 were plugged into circuit #2, and unit #3 had no light, so I first assumed it was a bad lamp. I unplug it, change the lamp (to a CSR700/2) and when I plug it back in I notice that both unit #3 and 4 home. :angryfire: Neither of them strike. So I unplug #3 and get #4 to lamp on. Then I plug unit #2 into circuit #2 (with unit #4) and everything is fine, no reset and both units strike. :06: Then I plug unit #3 into circuit #1 (with unit #1). No reset, but #3 still wont strike. :no: So I think I must have been imagining things, and so I plug units #3 and 4 back togther (after I get unit #4 to lamp on) and again, they both reset!! :aargh4: So I try to lamp them both on. I lamp on #4, but when I attempt to lamp on #3 (with a brand new lamp mind you), the lamp in #4 goes out and #3 never lamps on!!! :sad2: So I take unit #3 and plug it into its own power source. It homes, does its thing, but no lamp. I use the lamp on command, nothing. It wont strike at all!! :1zhelp:

So I guess there are really two problems. Why does unit #4 home when unit #3 is plugged in with it, but not when any other unit is plugged in with it, nor does unit #3 make any other unit but unit #4 reset.

Then there is the fact that unit #3 will never strike a lamp.

Mike

What voltage are you running your fixtures at? 110v or 208v?

At 110v the fixtures draw 10 amps each which might be part of your problem.

You are quickly discovering why moving lights should all have their own circuit. 2-fering movers is never a good idea.

I agree with Marty,
I sound like you are having a voltage drop when the fixtures strike, thus causing problems with the other fixture.
Especially if any of your cabling is not 12 gauge..
I would rerun individual cables to each fixture and see if that solves the problem.
Good Luck!
Joshua Wood

Well, okay, here is the deal.

I inherited this set up. I doubt I can get my boss to change the set up any time soon. But I am working on it. I would never twofer moving lights. Amarante taught us better than that!

First off all cable is 12/3. They are 110V.
When I cross plug though no problems. Only those two particular instruments have a problem being plugged togther. They have never had a problem before either.

Second. How does a 700W fixture draw 10A? Are you talking about during strike only or for the whole time of operation?

Third. Even when I plug seperately, I still get no strike out of the unit.

But thanks for the good ideas so far.

Mike

[quote=Esoteric]First off all cable is 12/3. They are 110V.
That will be your problem for sure....especially during the in-rush that happens durning startup/strike. If you have a long cable run then your voltage may be dropping just enough to give you problems.

[quote=Esoteric]Second. How does a 700W fixture draw 10A? Are you talking about during strike only or for the whole time of operation?
No they will draw 10A constantly.....don't forget you have all kinds of other things in there that draw power...motors, fans, transformer, etc, etc.

Your boss should go back to whomever did the install and make them come back and do it properly b/c this is clearly wrong. Either that or get someone to run two additional lines of power.

If you have 1 unit that will never strike,
It probably has something wrong with it,
Usually a fixture will make a clicking noise as it tries to strike,
If it is making no noise at all, then it probably is your Lamp Power supply, Perhaps a LPS Fuse, I believe they are on the inside of that particular LPS.

If it is making some clicking, it could be the ignitor card, or still be the Lamp power supply.

I don't remember if this fixture has a lamp enable circuit, that could be the problem as well, is the lamp cap fully screwed down and tight?


To be fair, at 110 volt the fixture doesn't quite draw 10amps, More like 9.5A but if your voltage ever drops into the 100 volts, it will.
In any case, you are loading a circuit very close to its capacity.

Joshua Wood

Well the one that wouldnt strike is a circuit issue. It only happens with those two particular lights and that one circuit. So I suppose that it draws too much power when you put them togther but when put with others they dont... So I am calling the unit fixed and just telling them we need more circuits... Other than that my two X-Spots, the Command with the bad LPC, and the bad stepper motor I am waiting for parts on...

MIke

How would I remove the LPS? My tech asked me if I could remove it and just send it in to look at getting it rebuilt... I am sure I can, but some instruction would be nice... Can anyone help?

Mike

Anyone?

Mike

Start here:

www.highend.com/support/automated_luminaires/studiocommand_views/KSA002%20%20ELECTRONIC%20ENCLOSURE%20ASSEMBLY.pdf



More diagrams available here:

www.highend.com/support/automated_luminaires/studiocommand_views/StudioCommandExp.asp




And more info here:

www.highend.com/support/automated_luminaires/studiocommand.asp

Hope this helps.:)

Is there a place online to find a diagram of the inside of the LPS?

Mike

I doubt it....if you have a bad LPS, it is probably best to just replace it, as not much can usually be done to repair.

I think someone on here replied to a thread saying that it would be cheaper to repair than to replace... Which I believe since they cost $1130 a pop...

Mike

Yes,
They usually are repairable,
but I would send them in, not try to repair them yourself.
Joshua Wood