Cyberlights Various Faults

No2.. actually shuts down completely at the main on switch..

For #1, It's possible that the ignitor has gone bad. Do you see the lamp strike up at all, possibly for a moment and then douse itself? Or does nothing happen at all? If absolutely nothing is happening, I would try and replace the ignitor.

For Fixture #2, if it's shutting down the power entirely, I would replace the thermal fuse if you can verify that all fans are clean and fully functional. They fuses cut the mains power when they're tripped.

For Fixture #3, depending on the age of the light, try some contact cleaner on the XLR connectors. Deoxit works wonders. If that doesn't help, it's possible the logic board is bad or needs a new bios chip.

[QUOTE=dijistudios;69906]For #1, It's possible that the ignitor has gone bad. Do you see the lamp strike up at all, possibly for a moment and then douse itself? Or does nothing happen at all? If absolutely nothing is happening, I would try and replace the ignitor.

Nothing happens with the bulb at all, you can hear the buzzing as it tries, tried working bulbs from other units but still the same



For Fixture #2, if it's shutting down the power entirely, I would replace the thermal fuse if you can verify that all fans are clean and fully functional. They fuses cut the mains power when they're tripped.

where is the thermal fuse? Is it the thing behind the fans with 4 connectors and a microswitch type thing?


For Fixture #3, depending on the age of the light, try some contact cleaner on the XLR connectors. Deoxit works wonders. If that doesn't help, it's possible the logic board is bad or needs a new bios chip.

it was working fine one night then nothing the night before, it passes dmx through it, so i think the connection is ok




thank you for your time :)

Re No2: The units main on switch turns off, it's roughly an hour of seemingly completely normal operation before this happens.. i've swapped the fans from another unit, and it seemed to last a little longer, altho the room temp had dropped at this point too, so maybe it helped with the overall temperature..

I got a few old cyberlights and the big PFC capacitor was absolutely dry and dead.
This caused the power switch to fail also, because of very high current.
Let that be done by a technician.Its not that easy.

Maybe in your case, the main thyristors are bad, too.

I changed all the power supply capacitors, the 5V-iso and 5V-NS 7805 and the old machines work as new.

Look at the side of the main switch. If there are dents or it is broken, then replace it.

The thermal fuse is next to the lamp.

The other switch is a main switch,that cuts off the entire device when you open the cover of the wheels on the front.

i think the cover switch is ok, its the main one on the bottom that goes off

thank you again

Please measure the current of the device before you change the switch.
it shuts off, when the current is too high. Thats his job.
It would shut offalso, when the device heats up and the current is high.
I would bet, that it is the capacitor that is the fault in your device

The thermal fuse is the little round thing above the switch behind the lamp with 2 connectors.
I opened the lamp cover and saw this other Microswitch for the back plate, that I didn't know yet ;-)

ok no1 is back up and running, thank you for your help! it was the ignitor

i've used no3 for these parts now, so onto no2

it doesn't appear to be quite the same as my others, it has the switch with 4 connectors, and where my other have a little circular thing plugged in line with this, this one doesn't or a space to have one like the others do,

if the problem is the PFC like said, why is this harder than changing the ignitor? it seemed like i'd only have to take out just as much stuff to replace this, ( i had to take off the connectors to this to remove the bottom section of the light)

also, where can i get parts in the UK?

When the main switch cuts off,it must be a serious problem.

Can you post a photo?
Mine all got the little round thermoswitch and an extra switch for the lamp plate,but i didn t open all of them yet.
You can get a ordinary motor capacitor for that. Its the same. Replace with same or lower capacity and same voltage.
But you have to keep an eye on that part, because there are pretty cheap capacitors that are only for starting a motor, not for hours of running.
Maybe it is named "run capacitor" or "operating capacitor".
The ignitor is also a standard part, you can order it elsewhere.

You have to take out the power supply board, one ballast cover and the cover switch.
Measure it,it barely fits in with a little force. Maybe you have to drill a new hole, if you cant find a matching part.
I got one as a spare,but they mechanically dont fit in very good.
some have other measurements, some got other screws (the build in ones)

for #3:
you can change all the parts on "5V-ISO"
7805, the optocouplers, and so on...

Wait! Is the fuse OK? There is a 5V-iso-LED on the logic board. All the lights are normally on.

edit: The 5V-iso LED an the 7805 is on the power board, but there also all LED should be on.

i've kindof used no3 for parts now.. so will come back to that one when i can find somewhere that has spares..

Can you please take a short look on the tilt motor?
Whats the last 3 chars on the visible motor on the mirror?
I think one of mine is in the wrong place. It's much too hot. (02V motor)

i will look when i go back to work..

what size is the mirror adjust hex key?

non of mine seem to fit.. either to big or too small