Studio color service manual?

tdjohntdjohn Registered User
edited November 2012 in HES Automated Lighting
Hi,

Can anyone direct me to a pdf location for a service manual for the studio color/spot line? There are lots of very good loose bits of info here, yet I would like a real road map - if it exists.

I have 13 of these and about a 1/3 have had issues - mostly lamp strike issues. I have bought xs logic and power boards, and a couple of ballasts. So, I can make them most of them work by changing parts around. I would really like to know more about what I am doing, tho.


John

Comments

  • tadawsontadawson Registered User
    edited October 2012
    The schematics are on the High End site (here) in the support section. I am not aware of any formal service manuals having been published for HES gear . . . The mechanicals are pretty obvious, and the schematics should give you everything else you should need . . .

    - Tim
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited October 2012
    hi,

    Just in case someone like me sees this.

    i found them here:

    http://www.highend.com/support/automated_luminaires/studiocolor575.asp

    they are rather direct.

    Lightparts.com is very helpful too.


    How about the point of the menu command that says "put instrument in service position" - what is that for? Should I be concerned when I work on them?

    John
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited October 2012
    The tilt belt seems to be stuck or slipping when fighting gravity. Tilt mostly works fine, but will the head get to about 9PM - 1/2 way up - and then do this stuttering action. It's like defibrillation. I can back it off with the controller, then speed up the motor speed, and recover from this stuttering, but I'd like to adjust the belt (or change a part) so this does not happen. Any clues?

    John
  • tadawsontadawson Registered User
    edited October 2012
    With power off, does the head move freely through it's entire range of motion? Typically the "ratcheting" sound from a stepper means that device it is trying to move is stuck/sticking, and causing it to skip steps.

    If the head is free, then is the belt too loose or tight? If so, adjust . . . And are you sure it's the motor making the noise, and not the belt skipping teeth on the pulley?

    If the head is free, the belt OK, and the motor just seems weak, then it could be the motor or a driver, but typically if you get the hard "stutter", it's just binding . . . if it's weak, you usually don't notice any stuttering. The fixture head should be pretty well balanced, in that there is very little gravity for the motor to overcome . . .

    - Tim
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited October 2012
    with the fixture soitting on a table -- home position points straight up. when i move the head, there are two points of increased friction. it mostly moves free except at 10:00 and 2:00 -- if 12:00 is straight up . it does not feel like burs or any such thing. just an localized increase in resistance to move.
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited October 2012
    and that is where the motor has trouble. I have the yoke covers off and the belt is not skipping, the motor just can't move the head. as if the motor is too weak.

    This unit is different from my others in that it does not have that tension increasing device on the other side of yolk from the tilt motor mechanism.

    john
  • tadawsontadawson Registered User
    edited October 2012
    On my 8 Studios, the heads all move with no noticeable resistance at any point, and definitely no changes throughout the range of motion. Something is binding in this fixture, or the tilt bearings are going out . . .

    Update: I looked at the drawings, and it appears that the motor brakes are only on the newer 'Colors . . . Like yours, mine are older, and don't have them, and there is pretty much zero friction in the tilt axis . . .

    - Tim
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited October 2012
    SOB, It was the tension on the motor itself. It was too tight. I was told that the unit was just sent in for service - right before I bought it. The service guy must have tensioned the belt as the last thing he did. Then didn't test it again.

    Look at this video.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z31HYGyFEw

    or search
    Studio Color 575 Tilt motor issue repair



    On you tube.


    Color me surprised. It's nice when it is easy.



    Thanks for your help. I may keep making these videos if they are helpful.



    John


    :headbang:
  • tadawsontadawson Registered User
    edited October 2012
    FYI, your video is private, and cannot be viewed . . .

    At any rate, glad you got it sorted! With the toothed belts in use in the SC, some tension is good, but (much like screws and light clamps . . . ) more is *NOT* better!

    And if I had a buck for everything I was told was "just done by a qualified tech" that was botched to he11 and back, I'd be rich! When I got my Studios, they were supposedly PMed right before sale . . . Yeah, is that why 3 of 8 were jumpered for the wrong voltage? I asked the guy at the company I bought from (one of the majors . . . ) if the last rental or two had griped about output and color temp . . . he replied "How did you know" . . . apparently for years they had missed it . . . Never say never, check it all, and assume nothing on used gear!

    Myself, I don't find videos on this stuff of much help at all - things just seem too simple to me, especially in something like an SC. But others may, who knows? Live with them for a bit, and it all sinks in pretty quick!

    - Tim
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited October 2012
    PK, now the video is public & available.

    Yes, it is sinking in.

    Since you mentioned it... So, where is that power jumper?

    John
  • tadawsontadawson Registered User
    edited November 2012
    John -
    My Studios are very early with magnetic lamp ballasts, so have hard voltage select jumpers. You state that yours are the 575, which are current, and have solid state lamp supplies which auto select for voltage, and which don't have the jumpers.

    - Tim
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited November 2012
    Thanks,

    I was told that by a used gear seller/rep. Nonetheless, I really wanted to check. Since I am finding that people have different views of these instruments, and it is hard to tell if the person talking has ever had one open.

    DIY, (and check your plans twice) seems to be the rule.

    John
  • tadawsontadawson Registered User
    edited November 2012
    OK, then the telling determination is this: On the side of the fixture opposite the display, do you have a flat panel or a heat sink? If the latter, it's solid state ballast . . . If the former, you should find what looks like a big transformer on that side which will be the magnetic ballast.

    - Tim
  • tdjohntdjohn Registered User
    edited November 2012
    i was sort of expecting the info to be in the model number ... all those 26fa etc distinctions...
  • Woodj32177Woodj32177 Registered User
    edited November 2012
    If I remember correctly,
    All studio colors 575 start 26F-
    I don't recall if the M's and S's also had that same numbering system

    TAdawson is correct.
    The easiest way to tell is panel opposite from the display.

    575's (And S's) have a huge finned heatsink on that side

    M's have a flat panel.

    The difference between S and 575 is a bit tougher.

    The logic card will say "Studio Color" on the face for a S
    It Should say "Studio 575" on an 575

    M and S also have a more squared off looking arm covers.
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